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Brake Bleeding Tools - Recommendations?


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Having done back axle work, my brake lines are full of air.    The fluid needed replacement anyway.

But even with a one-way valve, 'one-man' bleeder kit, and in the confines of a garage, doing so is labourious and exhausting, and so far, unsuccessful.

Clearly, I need to do this repeatedly and I want one of the more advanced type, so I don't have to press the pedal with a long stick.

But which type and which one?

 

There are suckers and blowers, that put a vacuum on the bleed valve or pressurise the master cylinder.

Any thoughts on either?

 

And a wide range of price in either type - anyone used on of the more costly ones?  Are they worth it?

 

I'll be grateful for your thoughts.

 

John

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Will be visiting this job very soon with the Spitfire brakes nearly complete.  The clutch already is - just awaiting fluid.

 

In the past I've used the cheapy "orange tube" one-way valves with mixed results (I think air gets in around the nipple itself) and special one-way nipples incorporating a non-return valve - which work very well.  Both need pedal pumping.

 

I also own a Gunson EZ Bleed - which works very well if you can get a decent attachment to the master cylinder.  I've been a bit less keen on it since I had a mishap involving considerable leakage at that point.

 

I think, if I were looking to invest again I'd be looking at vacuum systems - and I don't think it needs to be especially elaborate or expensive.

 

My own Vitesse bleeds itself - just open the nipple and wait......  The PI on the other hand was a complete cow!

 

Nick

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I've always used a long length of rubber hose into a jar getting a helper to depress the pedal then I lock the nipple off as the pedal is released and then repeat the process. Two man operation, but I have always shared the concern as Nick with thoughts of air being drawn in around the thread of the nipple the reason I lock it after each depression. Always get good brakes this way. I have owned the Gunson easy bleed for years but difficult to get a good seal on the master cylinder even with the lowest of presure. Worked well on a 1500 spit with the plastic reservoir where I modified an old cap but never had a good seal with the metal caps and had a few paint stripping incidents. I would look and the vacuum type.

 

Mark

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I have the sealey vacuum brake bleeder, its not really what i expected, it does work, slowly, you need a lot of air pressure to create very little vacuum.

 

I have borrowed the gunson one and it works better, be interested if there are better vacuum systems?

 

Imho, i've never come across a better solution than a mate pressing the pedal, but its not always practical.

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I have a Mity-Vac that does a great job usually.  Just did the S-Type Jag yesterday by myself.  However, the complex E-Type brakes are proving nearly impossible to bleed as the rear has a check valve built in to seal them off in the event of a plumbing failure.  I'm building a pump system to apply pressure to the rear bleeds and vacuum on the resevoirs in an attemp to get a flow going.  GRRRRR!!!!!!

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I tried this a short while ago, 

 

gave up in the end, 

 

obviously I did not try every type there is out there, but I started with a sucker type, thinking just that, less messy.

 

well they dont really work, the constantly draw air in at the thread of the breed nipple, pluss the hose they give you is hard plastic rubbish, easy enough to replace but you cant stop its sucking air in via the bleed nipple thread.

 

then there are the blowers, never tried one, but I cant see you getting a off the self blower with cap to suit our master cylinder, you might have to make your own cap.

 

they all seem to be to much trouble and I ended up finding a friendly spare leg. it never fails the old fashion way 

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Made me an adjustable arm to push the pedal (brake or clutch ) down and slip the top under the steering wheel. Did this years ago as I normally work by myself.

No real problem doing this, nipple with a plastic tube into a glass jar.

Clutch on a 2500 is a bit of a bastard. Got a small syringe which I use to start flow if I completely empty the system.

Seems to work ok for me.  :wub:

Tony.

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nang,

how do you do that and watch the tube for bubbles, and nip off the bleed screw when they stop?  Must have longer arms than me.

 

And Alan, that's exactly what I am using.   I've fashioned long sticks with slots in the end to push the brake pedal, but it's still a mega-faff.

What do the pros use?  Oh, yes, they have a garage boy to hoof the pedal.

 

John

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And Alan, that's exactly what I am using.   I've fashioned long sticks with slots in the end to push the brake pedal, but it's still a mega-faff.

 

 

What are the sticks for beating yourself?   :yes:

 

I find that provided I only slacken off the nipple a little bit, and ensure that there is enough fluid in the catchment container to cover the valve (I know you shouldn't have to, but I have found it more satisfactory) that I can just pump away and don't have to worry about holding down the peddle before nipping the nipple up.

 

But yes is someone comes up with something cheap(ish) and better, that would mean not having to constantly check the level in the master cylinder, and won't spray/leak fluid then I'd like to know.

 

Alan

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And Alan, that's exactly what I am using.   I've fashioned long sticks with slots in the end to push the brake pedal, but it's still a mega-faff.

 

 

What are the sticks for beating yourself?   :yes:

 

I find that provided I only slacken off the nipple a little bit, and ensure that there is enough fluid in the catchment container to cover the valve (I know you shouldn't have to, but I have found it more satisfactory) that I can just pump away and don't have to worry about holding down the peddle before nipping the nipple up.

 

But yes is someone comes up with something cheap(ish) and better, that would mean not having to constantly check the level in the master cylinder, and won't spray/leak fluid then I'd like to know.

 

Alan

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Hello all,

 

I've used the Gunson Easy Bleed for many years and found it good to use, I have had the occasional leak at the  master cylinder cap but no real problems, helped by the fact I use silicone brake fluid.

 

Prior to that I had an assistant and what I found helped to speed up bleeding of empty system was to slacken a bleed screw and set up a repetion of one full pump, place a finger over the nipple, pedal up, finger off one full pump finger on and so on. I found this brought fluid quickly to the cylinder. Once the lines were full revert to building up pressure by several pumps on a closed system then open the bleed as normal. My thinking was that pumping the pedal on a system full of air and closed was a slow way to get fluid to the cylinders.

 

Alec

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In general, I have only ever bled brake systems using the brake pedal,

 

however on clutches I have used a Gunson's easibleed. I did use an original cap rather than the one supplied in the kit.

Slightly annoying was having to deflate a tyre to under 20 PSI, only to have to reinflate it after bleeding the clutch.

 

 

 

I have bled back brakes on a few cars by simply removing the bled nipple and fluid reservoir cap

and allowing gravity to do the rest. Takes a while though.  :) Anyone for a cup of tea?

(That was on cars with wheel cylinders.)

 

 

 

 

Ian.

Edited by Sprint95m
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  • 2 months later...

Just to show that my previous attempts were CRIP, only todat have I drirven the car for the first time since winter.

And O-M-G, did I scare myself and the bottom of our road, pedal to floor, no arrest of speed. which wasn't great, but enough to demolish the railings if I hadn't pumped frantically, and got enough friction to not charge across the T-junction,

Phew!

 

Right, vacuum brake bleeder, please, Mr.Halfords.

Their Sealey one looks OK,    their "A2Z" perhaps not!   http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/bike-brakes/a2z-hydraulic-brake-bleeding-kit

 

John

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Just to show that my previous attempts were CRIP, only todat have I drirven the car for the first time since winter.

 

 

Funny have you noticed how time moves at different speed when preparing a car for the season, in January and February the first event is months away as you slowly chip away at the work, in March its coming but we have progress, Aw my G'd its April and only a few weeks to go!

 

Alan

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Indeed.  I've been waiting for parts since before Christmas, from a well known supplier.    OK, he went skiing in January, but ...

When they arrived a few weeks ago, I then had to take them to a local machinist for the Oilite bushes to be fitted (See my previous) and then fettle them myself to fit - the supplier did apologise for that.

Finally, when all was in place - the screw holes had been drilled and tapped for a smaller screw than OE!   The ones I took out won't fit!!  And the supplier does not answer emails or messages on his answering machine!!!

 

Fortunately I have two sets of throttle bodies, so I reassembled the spare set, and put them on the engine.   Fingers crossed I don't get another stuck-wide-open throttle, 'coz it's Thruxton in ten days time.

I hope.     Last I heard I was still on the reserve list!

 

And I have a thimbleful of fuel in the tank, which was why I was pootling down the road when I realised my brake bleeding wasn't satisfactory.

Ho-hum.    Try an Oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

 

J0hn

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WOW!

 

So many high tech solutions when a simple low tech works fine for me.

 

Run a clear tube from the brake bleeding nipple to a mason/glass jar half filled with brake fluid. Secure the tube in the jar so it stays submerged in the fluid.

 

Elevate the jar on a box or stand slightly above the brake caliper and out far enough for line of site when sitting in the car pumping the brake peddle. When bleeding the passenger side open the door and put the jar just inside so you can see it.

 

Pump the brake peddle slowly until you just see just fluid moving, then get out and tighten down the bleeder valve.

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