Jump to content

Sptifire 6 Son Of Frankenstein


Recommended Posts

RWD gearbox for the Alfa lump is not very easy.  The "whole hog" conversion with transaxle would be a hell of mission........ Could be quite a beast if done right.

 

Given your starting point I'd probably just freshen-up and sort the 2.5.  May not give huge power but will give a fat torque curve and thus bright and accessible performance in such a light car.

 

I've avoided 2.5s up to now mainly because I like a revvy engine and don't like breaking transmission parts.  Additionally the 2L tends to be better on fuel.  However, the electronically managed 2.5 in my PI had impressive grunt, even though not very high tune, and such an engine in the Vitesse would produce a TR6 eater......  Once I've got a stronger diff sorted I may revisit this idea.....

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 229
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Heresy here but the Alfa V6 option would probably include the rest of the Alfa ;-)

 

I'd love to make a mid-engined GTV 916 but that's a lottery win job for the moment

 

Back on planet bank account I'll go with Nick's suggestion and stick with the 2.5L but not tune the crap out of it.

If it eats the box/diff down the line then I'll have a re-think. Be nice to get something lighter or re-mount it a la Paul Tegler (along with stronger box and dif).

 

Be nice to get it running by Easter!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Burlen kit turned up. Carbs refurbed (so much easier than 2 stroke ones).

 

Going to do a little light porting on the manifold for cyl 2 and 5. The casting is actually quite good otherwise.

 

The HS6 adaptors arent bad so they stay. Unlike the homemade heat shields which were restricting things quite spectacularly on one carb. SS replacements on the way.

 

Next up I need to whip the head off and decide which one to use and how much work to get done on it.

 

I don't suppose anyone knows whether a Phoenix 6-3-1 header for a gt6 will fit round the 2.5L engine?

 

 

post-2749-0-04637300-1454346359_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Manifold will fit the 2.0 or 2.5 equally well or badly dependent on your luck.  They are somewhat variable, as are the cars.  May foul on the inlet manifold and almost certainly will foul on the steering column......

 

This rather entertaining vid suggests that a little bit of relieving using, er...... basic methods, doesn't hurt power as much as you might think.....

 

Further challenges include doing up the fixing bolts (some use cap head screws and ball-ended allen keys) and persuading the 3-1 joint to seal and keeping it sealed.......

 

The heads are mostly pretty similar.  Core shift  can make for some nasty steps at the back of the valves.  Some late heads (219015  & 219016 and I think one other) have smaller exhaust valves (presumably to reduce incidence of cracking between the valves). However, 219016 (2500S head) also has a difference in the way that the inlet valve throat is treated which, according to some (Chris Witor for example) give the best flow of any of the standard heads.  Other differ.  I have one of these on my Vitesse (needed a HUGE skim to get decent CR on a 2L!) with fairly minimal other work and it gives good power.

 

More info on DIY head work here

http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/690-diy-heads/

and here

http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6080-nicks-diy-head/

 

Don't get too crazy opening the manifold out...... Chris Witor actually adds material in the areas you mention, though that is on a Mk1 manifold.

 

Cheers

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice one. The phoenix is on the list. And i have a dagenham screwdriver. Cant be any worse than doing the seals and bushes on vfr750 forks. Only way I could separate those cnuts in the end was to fill with water and use sash cramps to hydro the old seals out. And don't get me started on checking the bucket shims.

Having said that if the viffer was a car it would be an nsx.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some fairly mild manifold modification so far.

Also planning to tidy up the "knife and fork" ( haven't heard that one before but seems to sum it up) job with some new linkage bits including an alloy push bike brake hanger to clamp round the servo tske-off for the throttle cable. Rather than a bit of bent rusty scrap nailed on with a wood screw.

 

post-2749-0-31638000-1454610802_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

New head has arrived .thanks to Nigel in Anglesey for sorting that.

The valves and seats appear to be in excellent condition. No core issues either. But doesn't have uprated exhaust seats.

So should I

A slap it on, use an additive and drive it

B strip it and send it off to get new seats then fit it

C a n other

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re the valve seats

 

My usual approach is:

 

a) If the head has run many miles with a long history of running on leaded fuel, shows no sign of recession AND haves valves/seats that are good enough to go without even lapping the valves in, I run it as is.  Ran the Vitesse for at least 25k fairly hard miles on unleaded with no ill effects to the valve seats before the head was removed for other reasons.

 

B) If any kind of work on the seats is done then I consider it necessary to have hardened inserts fitted to the exhaust valve seats as any residual work hardening of "lead memory" will be thinned or removed.

 

I should also say that I run 95 unleaded (usually the cheapest I can find) and don't/won't use additives.  You could skip the hardened seats if you are prepared to run additives all the time.  Works out quite pricey if you do use the car much.

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Valves and or seats on the way out judging by compression and inspection.

The replacement one was pretty cheap so I took a punt on it.

Pulled the tappits and valves today and started cleaning everything. Looks good. Coming up a treat with bbq cleaner.(also brilliant for wood burner glass)

 

Smooth castings, good seats so I'll just give the valves a light lapping and swap it.

Might have some fun getting the 2500 water hose connector out to fit the gt6 plug.

Picks of it pre cleaning...

post-2749-0-46107100-1455052096_thumb.jpg

post-2749-0-38979400-1455052143_thumb.jpg

post-2749-0-10274900-1455052167_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah 219016 so identical (in theory) to the one on there.

 

Bit of gunk and pressure washer action at lunchtime (followed by WD40) and its come up very nicely.

 

Interestingly it has iron guides but stem seals fitted on the inlets. Not sure if that's a good idea for lubrication.

Also has red marked single valve springs which I assume are stock.

 

Looking forwards to seeing what crap is fitted in the one on the car at present.

 

Hmmmm...looks like a daleks orgy

 

post-2749-0-13578100-1455112083_thumb.jpg

post-2749-0-97512000-1455112165_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yes!

 

Sometimes it appears that there is no way they could be joined.  The crud sets like cement and has to be chiselled out.  Blocks that have spent time on the saloons are worst 'cause it tips to that corner and the bottom of the water jacket appears to be a good inch above the drain.  My PI was like that....  There's probably some previous bad tempered comment about it on here somewhere.......

 

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crap.

Found a fairly big verticle gouge in cyl1.

But the compression seemed ok on 1 so I'll ignore it and slap it back together.

Basically if this engine pisses me around any more I'll try and put together a pimped 2L on the bench then swap.

 

Water pump housing needed more TLC than expected. so I had it in the electrolyte bath and finished it with BBQ paint.

If only I'd remembered to put gloves on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...