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Craig's 6Fire In Aus


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#261 Nick Jones

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Posted 02 June 2017 - 12:29 PM

Owww!  Poor Dave - looks like the kind of injury that causes blood waterfalls.......

 

Coming on well - I'd say the back of the box needs to go alot lower so the tub (bottom of handbrake depression) isn't resting on the propshaft.

 

Nick



#262 GT6MK3

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Posted 08 June 2017 - 03:07 PM

Really good progress !!
It certainly feels that you're working night and day on this project :-)

May I suggest that you check fan, cooler, bonnet and exhaust sytem clearance before you fabricate the gearbox mount !?

JC

It sure does feel like that at this end. Plus working 2 jobs.  Sleep is for the weak...

 

Gearbox mount

 

IMG_2940.JPG

 

Can be shimmed/spaced up and down in 2 different spots to give the perfect(ish)  angles for all the above.  

 

5/8" hardline is now  bent and P clipped from the boot area up to the engine bay.  It'll let the Accusump in the boot inject into the 3/8 NPT galley plug below the dizzy.  Might make up an octopus for the other plugs, will see how it goes.

 

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At the back end it's waiting with the 2 3/8" fuel lines for the body to go on so they can bulkhead through to the boot/fuel tank..

 

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Have spent about 20 hours this week (mostly on late, dark, cold nights) shaving unneeded metal chips of blank bits of alloy, turning them into parts.  Alan's collection of machines has relocated from his former factory to a shed at the bottom of his new estate.  It's in the hils, it's quiet and lonely, and it's bone achingly cold at night.  But needs must.

 

Generous as ever, he helped me out with some of the stuff I still can't do myself.

 

This is the new 36-1 timing wheel getting some adjustment on his lathe

 

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Most of my time though was spent on the Bridgeport mill.

 

Under this pool of oil is a Plenum chamber throttle body and IAC valve flange being created.

 

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He's incredibly generous with both his time and his facilities.

 

This one's all my own work.

 

This bit of stock 

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Will be the working piece of the EFI plenum.  This will be the intake runner face on the inside.

 

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Figuring out how to cut these ports and have them mate up with runners on the outside took me about 3 days of experimentation a couple of years ago.  

 

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The program is saved in the mill, so cutting both sides _only_ took just under 4 hours this time.  Only 30 percent of the stock piece is left in the end, the rest is those tiny little chips.

 

It's immensely satisfying to turn lumps of metal into useful parts.  Alan's mentored me incredibly generously, and been equally generous with access to his machines.  I really struggle with patience though - I know the part I envisage is inside the stock, and I always underestimate just how long it will take to cut it out.  That's one of about 13 or 14 bit's that need to be made.

 

Anyway...

 

This afternoon, afternoon, after much procrastination and deliberation, the (bare metaled, cut up, metal glued, prepped and painted) body and the (Stripped, prepped, painted rebuilt) chassis (with the all new driveline) were re-united.

 

 

IMG_2944.JPG

 

 

Ohh yeah...



#263 oldtuckunder

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Posted 08 June 2017 - 07:08 PM

 It'll let the Accusump in the boot inject into the 3/8 NPT galley plug below the dizzy.  Might make up an octopus for the other plugs, will see how it goes.

.

 

A neat place to hook the acusump to is that plug directly above the filter adaptor, its already threaded if you drill the alloy plug out carefully, And I then used a straight adaptor to 1/2" bsp pipe fittings.

 

The advantage of taking/injecting at that point is that its post cooler/filter so you are accumulating filtered oil, and also injecting right back into the main feed of the oil gallery. I did play with Spider set ups but in the end decided that injecting at that point I would just link #6 and #1 gallery plugs so if the pressure dropped at the front of the galley there was a direct link from where the accumulator was injecting #6 to the front #1.

 

Another advantage is if you are using the accumulator as a pre-oiler before starting you are injecting into the main oil gallery not into the lower gallery and feeding oil into the filter/cooler pipework before it can work its way through and up into the oil gallery.

 

preoilersolenoid2.jpg

 

Alan



#264 Nick Jones

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Posted 08 June 2017 - 07:29 PM

Oh yeah indeed..... 

 

If you want the fuel and oil pipes to turn up neatly through the boot floor...... it's MUCH easier to arrange before you bolt the tub down.  Guess how I know that......

 

Nick



#265 GT6MK3

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Posted 09 June 2017 - 01:06 PM

Oh yeah indeed..... 

 

If you want the fuel and oil pipes to turn up neatly through the boot floor...... it's MUCH easier to arrange before you bolt the tub down.  Guess how I know that......

 

Nick

 

 

Yep.  I was lucky enough to have a hoist available when I ran the GT6 EFI lines, but even then they were a complete bitch.  I'm trying to apply the lessons learned this time.

 

A neat place to hook the acusump to is that plug directly above the filter adaptor, its already threaded if you drill the alloy plug out carefully, And I then used a straight adaptor to 1/2" bsp pipe fittings.

 

The advantage of taking/injecting at that point is that its post cooler/filter so you are accumulating filtered oil, and also injecting right back into the main feed of the oil gallery. I did play with Spider set ups but in the end decided that injecting at that point I would just link #6 and #1 gallery plugs so if the pressure dropped at the front of the galley there was a direct link from where the accumulator was injecting #6 to the front #1.

 

Another advantage is if you are using the accumulator as a pre-oiler before starting you are injecting into the main oil gallery not into the lower gallery and feeding oil into the filter/cooler pipework before it can work its way through and up into the oil gallery.

 

 

I like the logic of that.  I am a little worried about hanging the weight if the solenoid off the block unsupported.  Does yours have a support?

 

If I do that, I'm going to need to do a few things differently.

 

Some questions for the wiser heads...

 

Can anyone definitively tell me the thread size of that hole above the filter.  I've read 5/8 and 3/4 unf, but no consensus (In fact, I can find Nick J saying both!).

 

I'm going to have to find new homes for my idiot oil pressure light sensor, and my Accusump sensor.  Any reason I cant use the 1/8NPT plugs in the other ports of the main gallery?  I could put one at the front, and one at the back, as I have the packaging room.  Will those locations still read the pressure ok?

 

Ta

 

C.



#266 oldtuckunder

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Posted 09 June 2017 - 04:24 PM

 

I like the logic of that.  I am a little worried about hanging the weight if the solenoid off the block unsupported.  Does yours have a support?

 

If I do that, I'm going to need to do a few things differently.

 

Some questions for the wiser heads...

 

Can anyone definitively tell me the thread size of that hole above the filter.  I've read 5/8 and 3/4 unf, but no consensus (In fact, I can find Nick J saying both!).

 

I'm going to have to find new homes for my idiot oil pressure light sensor, and my Accusump sensor.  Any reason I cant use the 1/8NPT plugs in the other ports of the main gallery?  I could put one at the front, and one at the back, as I have the packaging room.  Will those locations still read the pressure ok?

 

 

 

 

Actually that was MK 1 of my solenoid mounting that I did for speed, I now have it mounted on a bracket at the accumulator end which I now have mounted a short distance away. 

 

Thread size?  just looked at what I think is the correct MOCAL order and it was a 3/4 UNF - 1/2 BSP adaptor I bought.

 

I have used both 1 & 6 for sensors and they worked fine, then I linked 1 & 6 as a Spiders Leg so now use #2 for the high pressure idiot light 35psi (if you notice #2 which is in the engine mount casting has been nicely machined by the factory to just take a pressure sensor if you go for one of the slimmer rather than fat ones. I now use the tap in the gallery at the distributor for the low pressure idiot light and #5 gallery plug for the oil pressure gauge.

 

Alan



#267 Nick Jones

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Posted 09 June 2017 - 08:35 PM

 

 

Can anyone definitively tell me the thread size of that hole above the filter.  I've read 5/8 and 3/4 unf, but no consensus (In fact, I can find Nick J saying both!).

 

I'm going to have to find new homes for my idiot oil pressure light sensor, and my Accusump sensor.  Any reason I cant use the 1/8NPT plugs in the other ports of the main gallery?  I could put one at the front, and one at the back, as I have the packaging room.  Will those locations still read the pressure ok?

 

Ta

 

C.

 

Ah crap.... I hate it when I'm presented with evidence of plot loss.....

 

It's one of them..... Definitely UNF and 3/4" I think.  The original info came from Andy T and he was definitely right.  I cut a chunk off a big bolt and then drilled and tapped it 1/8" BSP for my external oil feed.  Needs a decent thread sealant/lock.

 

Nick



#268 GT6MK3

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Posted 11 June 2017 - 09:11 AM

Coils are roughed in

IMG_2967.JPG

Packaging them to fit was tricky, these are the bigger variant than last time, and I had to work hard to get them into the available space.

Took a couple of goes, plus the assistance of senior management.

IMG_2969.JPG

Got there in the end.



#269 GT6MK3

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Posted 15 June 2017 - 03:24 PM

The push is on to get as much as possible done before I (finally!) move the 6Fire out of Alan's factory.

I was thinking yesterday how I've pushed my luck a few times on this build - Lots of spinny, whirry, dangerous tools have been used.  I'm pretty safety conscious -goggles facemasks, etc, but sometimes fatigue and stupidity slip in.

So of course, I immediately hurt my toe again.

This time I was really lucky.  I was tired and rushing, and trying to get at the innards of a dizzy without taking the time to pull it apart properly.  When I caught the cutting disk of the angle grinder on a spring mount, it kicked back at me.  So I jumped, and let go.  

Being in close proximity of a running, airborne, free range angle grinder is a sure way to have the coppery, acid taste of fear and adrenaline rush to the back of your throat.  My whole body jumped back.  Sadly for my toe, it was the spring utilised for the jump, so it was last to leave.  As I was in midair. the 8000 rpm cutting disk sliced through my shoe, bit my sock, and just nibbled on the skin of my brave but oh so stoopid big toe.

 

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Lucky escape, could have been really nasty.  Fatigue and rushing.  Wasn't a good moment peeling off my shoe to find out what I'd done.

 

Annywaay...

 

After another care package of parts from England, the bonnet is finally complete, including the shiny re-chromed bumpers, and it's ready to go on this weekend.

 

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The bung for the wideband is tacked into the collector after much marking, guessing, and handwringing, and it fits beautifully into the incredibly small space afforded it.

 

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Dave has slung mounts for the GF battery that come off the rear bumper mounts, and it's snugly in the corner of the boot.

 

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The 36-1 crank wheel and trigger are mounted and ready,

 

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and the dizzy has been dissembled, gutted, and re-purposed as a half moon cam synch sensor unit.

 

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Re-chromed rear bumpers are mounted, as are the wheelbarrow noise ports...

 

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Work, work work..



#270 GT6MK3

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 02:05 PM

Frustrating weekend.

 

I picked up my refurbed period cosmic 2's and had tyres fitted.  

 

 

IMG_3022.JPG

 

 

Before the refurb, I grabbed a wheel and checked that the M12 studs fitted through the steel inset in the wheel..  Upon trying to fit the wheels, I discovered that one has 3 m12+ inserts, and all the other inserts are too small.  So I need need inserts.  Drat.

 

Next up was the doors.  Both were fitted up and worked with the locks and catches prior to paint.

 

This was the Drivers door, with latch fitted, proir to paint.

 

IMG_1827.JPG
 
IMG_1828.JPG

 

Now it simply doesn't want to fit properly.  The problem is the lock - I can get the door itself to fit pretty nicely, but when I fit the lock/catch, it (the lock) isn't high enough, and pulls the door down as it closes, which makes the rear top corner of the door rub at the back of the B post.  I've applied all the adjustment I can find to the door lock, but I think I'm at the point of having to relieve the holes in the tub and the inner nut plate to get the locking catch on the tub to sit higher.  Any wise words appreciated.

 

So I left it and moved on to the Pax door.  It fitted up nicely 3rd go.  One win for the weekend.

 

Next, on to the bonnet.

 

I could use some fairly choice words here if left unsupervised.

 

It either sits too low at the front, or, if we add height at the front, it sits too far back.

 

We loosened off the bars, we tried all we could think of, but either the backs of the guards foul on the firewall, or the engine (which is almost kissing the steering rack) is too tight for clearance at the front.  I gave up when the Canleys alternator kit washer rubbed on the inside of the bonnet, and gave me a tiny weeny pimple on the outside.  Pretty sure I can have ir made right, but ohhh, the language...

 

Any thoughts on geting the door or bonnet to behave?

 

Current status...

 

IMG_3025.JPG

 

C.

 



#271 JMH

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 07:30 PM

Looking good anyway B)

They were not taken apart prior to painting at the factory - to avoid this :whistling:

 

Take off the striker plate and make sure it can go all way up to max position (that the tapped plate behind can move up!).

You can't move the door lock - as 2 out of 3 nuts are welded to the door.

Pictures would help though

 

Re bonnet: If you raise it at the front, it moves back. There fore, it can be adjusted at the pivot bolt. Further adjustments (in heigh) is to loosen the bolt sitting at the Bonnet Strengthener Panel and press the support pivot tube up or down - see slotted fixing here: https://www.rimmerbr.../Item--i-613598



#272 GT6 Nick

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 09:25 AM

Oh, you have a Canley alternator mount too. If I'd spotted that and remembered it's significance, I could have warned you to be careful - sorry.

My bonnet has a pimple too

#273 GT6MK3

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 02:23 PM

Yep.  That mount is a trap waiting to catch the unsuspecting.  It's PDR or a repaint.

 

But, today was a much better day.  Interesting trick with the drivers door.  We'd double shimmed it when we had no paint. to allow for paint  thickness.  Before we went hacking at the lock mounts, we tried going back to the double sims, and voila.  Perfect fit.  Weird that pushing the hinges further out gave us more height at the back.  It ain't scientific, but it worked.

 

Then we spent 4 hours adjusting the hood.  First move was to ditch the Canley's upper mount, and get the Alternator out of the way.  It'll need a new upper mount and a much longer fan belt, but I did that already on the GT6.

 

After 4 hours we're pretty darn close.  Lot's and lots of trial and error, try and re-try, tweak, and re-tweak.  The back edge of both wheelarches had to be "adjusted" to not foul on the bulkhead.

 

The top fit is now pretty good.  It's not perfect, but it's within a few mill of where I want it, and even my OCD has to accept that a car this old thats had so much done will need some understanding...

 

The current challenge is the fit of the rear lower wings of the bonnet fenders, and specifically trying to get them aligned along the line of the sills.

 

The horizontal fit along the sill line is pretty nice, but they warp in slightly at the rear, and out slightly at the wheel arch.

 

IMG_3039.JPG

 

It's about 2.5mm at each end, 5 mm overall, ever so slightly worse on the pax side than the drivers.

 

IMG_3040.JPG

 

It's not much, but any suggestions on how to dial it out would be appreciated.

 

Overall, she's looking quite pretty...

 

IMG_3041.JPG

 

C.



#274 oldtuckunder

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Posted 20 June 2017 - 07:30 PM

 

It's not much, but any suggestions on how to dial it out would be appreciated.

 

 

 

Had a similar problem on a MK4 two years ago.  I cut some polystyrene blocks (hardish but non scratching) if part of the edge was too far in I put block behind it to push it out further than it needed to go, and if it was too far out I used blocks on the outside. Then I put a couple of large ratchet straps right around the car being careful to pad any edges or paintwork that the belts touched, and then tightened them up and left it for 48 hours. When I undid them it was about right. Probably lucky to get what I wanted first time.



#275 JohnD

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Posted 20 June 2017 - 08:28 PM

OUCH! Steve, lucky to keep toe?

 

I burnt my hand earlier this year, grabbing a part someone else had just welded.    I'm lucky too, that it was no worse than 2nd degree in the middle (full thickness, skin has to grow back from the edges not from underneath) and that it did so with no scarring at all.

 

So.   I'm determined to use the PPE (Personal Protection Equipment) that I've been taught to use.     Work gloves - if I'd had those, my burn would have been minimal, if at all.    Eye protection - a visor is much better than goggles.   Overalls, even in the 32 degree heat we have at present.  Not much undernetah but arms and legs covered.    And shoes!    I wear steel capped clogs - kick them off or on if I need to go indoors - or steel capped boots.    THEY would have saved your foot!

 

I know H&S is boring, but the more I do, the more I know it's right.

JOhn



#276 GT6MK3

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 03:00 PM

Well, she's a lot more like Priscilla than Elvis, but after just over 2 years, she's left the building!

She looked ready and raring to go

IMG_0006.JPG

But I swear that when the door opened, she looked like a nervous puppy who isn't sure if it's ready for the outside world.

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Before long she was loaded up and ready to roll

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Soon she was home

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And tucked in

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Of course that meant the red Mk3had to give up the garage space she's been taught was hers alone

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Which led to a 30 minute incredibly careful trailer reversing session to get down the narrow twisting driveway.

A hour later, the Mk3 is hiding in a buddy's garage in the hills.

IMG_0022.JPG

Only fair that she's tucked up too

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#277 Nick Jones

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Posted 22 June 2017 - 04:35 PM

Whoo hoo - that looks like a car - and a very classy one at that.  Cosmics and dark silver works really well.

 

Fear you may have jealousy issues with the red one....... unless it's feeling really secure in your love for it.

 

Nick



#278 toddski

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 02:24 AM

Wow! Just wow! Absolutely chuffed to see it looking like that. You've done a great job. Said it many times before, it went to the right home.



#279 Nick Jones

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 07:27 AM

Yeah.... I can think of a couple cars parked a few metres from me that would really benefit from a "holiday" with Uncle Craig  :P

 

Hope you can maintain the momentum 'cause you must be bloody knackered having come so far, so fast with it.

 

Nick



#280 GT6MK3

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Posted Yesterday, 03:51 PM

Kind words lads, cheers!

 

Had a long chat the other night with the red Mk3.  She's been sadly neglected due to this build, but she's very much my favorite car.  She'll be back.

 

The Cosmics cost waaaay to much to have refurbed, then cost even more to get them to fit over the M12 studs - thats a story in its self.  They also limit the tire choices, and I may yet regret the 185 70 r13's if they rub.  Minilite replicas would have been easier and cheaper, but the cosmics are kinda pretty.  They're about to cost me even more time and money looking for center caps too.

 

Got to admit that my momentum is pretty much stalled - I need to empty out all my crap from Alan's factory this week, and then I'm gonna take a short break to get some work done and make some much needed funds before I finish off the Sixfire.  I have two day jobs to try to pay for all this, and I'm really really tired.

 

I cannot tell a lie though, as I sat in the quiet garage at home the other night talking to the Mk3, I couldn't help but think that a solid month of bodywork could have her looking as nice as the 6fire...

 

Lucky I have no room for such shenanigans...

 

C. 






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