Nick Jones Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Then I looked at the entrance to the gears from the upper distribution chamber. Again, casting flash easily and quickly removed. Very little material taken off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Interestingly enough, of the 3 sets of pump gears I had to hand, the new ones had the poorest dimensions - so I ended up using the best set of used gears which had almost 1/2 the clearance between the gears compared to the new ones. Â Using a 800 grade wet/dry paper with WD40 on a sheet of glass, I lapped the ends of the gears smooth and height-matched the inner and outer. They were pretty good to start with so not much material removed. I then lapped the main body to get the end float down to 0.002" (started at about 0.008" so took a while!). Finally I lapped the working surface of the base plate to remove some light scoring. Â Who knows how much difference the "flow mods" will make. However, the tolerancing will definitely help quick priming and hot oil pressure at low rpm. Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oviwan Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 well done! you'll never know what the improvement is. unless you'll take detailed measurement before & after. but simpliest effect could be that you'll limit the total pressure at the relief valve to a secure level too. that will avoid heating up the oil by the pump and that will save power. Â did you check the supply hole between pump body and engine block? we had an offset so the crossection was limited to ~80%. try to find the best position for the pumpbody first as you can rotate a bit. do not forget to set a mark between pump & block for re-assembley! Â the dome in the block, where the oil is distributet into the main gallerys is worth a look as well. Â harry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Your point about checking the outlet hole matches the block gallery is well made. Not an issue on mine. In fact I was able to open it out quite a bit to match it to the block. It has ended up quite a bit larger and I've smoothed the sharp corners off. Â Suspect this will have only very minimal effects but only took 5 minutes. Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 A god's teeth, Nick! That last looks more geological than engineerical! JOhn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Yes, for some reason, the camera makes it look as though I hacked it out with an axe....... It looks much better in the flesh! Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 Pistons are back from their skim. I now have a pretty uniform 0.005" pop-up. Â In my original measurements it also showed up that conrods 3 & 5 were just slightly bent giving a 0.1mm variation across the width of the piston crown. These were checked on the rod-checking rig, which confirmed a slight bend, now rectified. Time to give the oil ways a final swill-out before final assembly. Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share Posted November 24, 2013 Crank, rods & pistons now fitted for the last time - I hope.  Was playing with plastigauge (a first for me) which shows:  Main bearings all at 0.0018" (ish - just under 0.002" anyway) with VP2 bearings  End float @ 0.0066" with solid PB washers at standard size  BE (VP2 shells) 1 2 3 4 5 6 0.0019" 0.0018" 0.0019" 0.0017" 0.0016" 0.0017" (all +/- 0.0002", the plastigauge chart is in 0.0005" intervals) On the BEs I also tried some King Trimetal, which were measuring typically 0.0005" bigger gaps.  It occurs to me that I don't actually know what the clearances are supposed to be! Anyone know??  It all turns sweetly though.  Just pondering the BE bolts..... these are standard ones, visually in excellent condition but used and I don't know how used. I have other similar sets, also used.  Standard ones should be fine for my purposes and I'd be happy to buy new standard ones, but for a nagging suspicion that my used ones might actually be better than current repro tat......  Previously recommended Ford OE bolts are either NLA, similar repro tat with old Ford tax applied or ARP (ouch!). Thoughts?  Cheers  Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6MK3 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 Nick, Â What variant of plastiguage did you go with? DO you have any photos of using it? Â Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 I bought the 0.001 - 0.007" version. Pack of 10 strips (each about 80 mm long so cut to length as needed). Comes with instructions and measuring chart. Easy to use - best tip is do put some sort of release agent on the shell surface as otherwise it sticks like poo to a blanket and is difficult to get off without marking the bearing. I used 3 strips and that was with some multiple-measuring messing about with the two bearing makes on the BEs.  It seems that the clearance are supposed to be between 0.0012" and 0.002" (which mine would not have been with the King shells - more like 0.0021" - 0.0024").  Be interested to know what a serious metrologist (Alan) makes of the stuff - he'll surely have a way of measuring the hole and the shaft and working it out that way.......  Did take some pics but not yet downloaded and appear to have left camera at work.....  Thoughts on rod bolts welcomed - loath to spend close on £10 per bolt for ARP given that the weakest point of the standard setup is reckoned to be the threads on rods!  Cheers  Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5piman Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Hello Nick, Â as a matter of interest, I have use lead wire in the past when checking bearing clearances (not engines but industrial machines). Â Exactly the same principle but using a micrometer to check the thickness of the compressed lead. Â Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 Hi Alec, Â That's interesting. I've read of people using fine solder wire for the same purpose but was a little wary of marking the bearing shells. Plastigauge is cheap enough. Still curious to hear what Craig's mate Alan thinks of it all...... Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5piman Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Hello Nick, Â solder is harder but the lead did not mark the bearings, which were white metalled not shells. Â Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 Interesting. Suspect plastigauge is easier to get than lead wire these days though...... Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Slow progress...... Â ........made an external oil line today to turn the main gallery into a ring main. 8mm copper tube and some Enots fittings, mostly 'cause I had nearly all of it kicking about. I think the shape is flexible enough to allow for differential expansion and I'll make a couple of brackets to minimise vibration. Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triumphlux Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 That looks very period and is a very clean installation. I might add the mod to my engine on day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 (edited) Thank you, Nick! I know I've imitated you, and you have returned the compliment! But you have drilled into that lead seal on top of the filter housing? Did you have to cut a thread there or at the front end? John  Edited December 8, 2013 by JohnD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 John, there is a rudimentary thread holding the lead seal in place. I have no idea what it's supposed to be as it's so crude. I automatically tap it to 1/2 NPT and never gave much thought to the original cuts.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 John,  Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery . I've not done exactly the same though. The large plug above the filter goes directly into the large oil-filter outlet gallery and thus my external tube bypasses the main longitudinal gallery entirely, giving a genuine ring-main effect. My concern with the tapping you have used is that it is already 80% of the way along what I consider to be the most restrictive section of that longitudinal gallery, so I'm not sure you're gaining as much benefit as you hope. A very simple mod, using the same fittings (but maybe a slightly longer hose) would be to pick up on the rearmost gallery plug as that section has much less to feed. IIRC, Martin did that on his GT6?  The plug above the oil filter is aluminium and is threaded 3/4" UNF. It doesn't come out all that easily - my technique is to drill through and then beat a Torx bit into the hole and use that to undo - sometimes takes a couple of attempts. Ok on a stripped block - otherwise swarf is a problem. You can buy the new aluminium plugs from Rimmers, but I've just sawn a piece off a 3/4" UNF bolt then drilled and tapped that 1/8"BSP for my Enots pipe fitting. (Tip, if planning to through-drill and tap a section of bolt, saw the last 1/4" of the bolt first and chuck it away, then saw of the length you want - the end part often has very hard bits in that will destroy even good quality drill bits..... guess how I know that )  Cheers  Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6Steve Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 3/4 UNF?? That's good to know. I never bothered with those threads as I made both fittings to 1/2 NPT so all the fittings were readily available. I'm about to do another block so I'll pay attention this time. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motov8id Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 (edited) 8mm seem like a large diameter. Do you think it will have any effect on the oil pressure to the front bearing through the internal passage or the external passage? Edited December 9, 2013 by motov8id Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Yes, I did the same some time ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 ohh pic: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted December 17, 2013 Author Share Posted December 17, 2013 In spite of being unused, my crank has marks on the seal face at the rear (pic 1). I debated whether I could get the seal to sit just right to miss the damaged areas....... Â ......then decided not to chance it. I don't enjoy taking engines/gearboxes out that much. Â So Speedi sleeve to the rescue (pic 2). Not very cheap, but really shouldn't leak now. Â Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 just hope they don't become a stress raiser Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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