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Standard Triumph Marque Day

Mon, 21 May 2012 22:23:37 +0000

Anybody going to Prescott this weekend?

Triumph T6 Spitfire Gt Build Chris Sherrington.

Mon, 21 May 2012 21:26:32 +0000

Hi all, well my wedding (just gone) has now been fully paid for and now my attention turns towards my Triumph Spitfire GT. I will be using a T6 Fabrications Fibreglass body shell.
T6 Fabrications
Ill be converting the current engine to EFI after the body is fitted and paid for. Then ill be building a fast road spec 1147 engine to give the car the engine she should be running with an 8 port SAH Head.

However back to the body. What does a T6 body look like........It looks like this:

Very sexy, very sleek and most importantly ROT FREE!!! Many thanks to the owner of this car for leaving it with Graham so I could ogle it.
My Car is a mk2 spitfire. Here's a shot from a year ago when I started to rebuild her.

It was in a sorry state having been stripped 14 years before i bought it and then the owner part assembled and then lost interest.
Here is the point where I'm at. Car has new rebuilt engine, all mechanicals have been serviced and MADE SAFE!!!and reliable. I fitted many new parts and its my daily driver.

I use to be a Vehicle Mechanic so doing the above was the easy bit. However I'm no panel beater. I originally wanted a GT6 but not the motor(straight 6) and I wanted to be able to use it through the winters etc without worry. Then in walks the T6 Body concept. It fills all my criteria.

So over the next 6 months I hope to have more photo's of the body being prepared by Graham. I do not intend to build this car all on my own as my time is too short. However Graham is going to do all the little annoying bits that take to long for us NON Panel beaters to do. Fitting doors, windows etc. He will then come up to Scotland and drop the body on. I will then transfer all the bits over from my current tub to the new one. Job done just like that.........Maybe be not, but wish me luck.

Chris.

Running

Mon, 21 May 2012 20:49:46 +0000

Anyone else here do any running?
Did the Frenchay 10k this morning. Only saw the sign advertising it on Thursday, so I was lucky not to miss it.
No training what so-ever, other than treadmill warm ups at the gym, so i was quite pleased with 47minutes 42 seconds. Not bad for 44 years old. certainly steamed past loads of young 'uns ;). Some hills in the route- though nothing extreme.
Didn't have a watch so, apart from being told I did the first 5k in 23 minutes, I was at a loss as to how i was doing :-/.
Missed the finish line clock as I was steamin' past some 'ginger' who overtook me ;D
A great time had all told- really enjoyed the good spirit of the other runners.

Cycling

Mon, 21 May 2012 18:35:56 +0000

Well, for some odd reason I am getting stronger and stronger urges to get back out cycling again. I have had brief forays into it over the last couple of years, and to that end I own two bikes, an off-road mountain bike and a light-weight road bike (which may or may not have a buckled frame, really need to check that out!)

Now, whilst I have been happy with these for the last two years, what I really want to do is get back into touring again, for which neither of my current frames are suitable. Basically, neither have fastening points for a pannier rack, and they are both dedicated bikes for their own purpose, whilst I really want a cross-purpose bike.

This is something I have considered for a few years now, and for quite a while my old Claud Butler was a good compromise, however it lacked disc brakes. At the time, I enquired about finding a frame that would allow disc brakes and was informed by several bike shops that I was being stupid in wanting something that was far over-powered for a touring bike. Needless to say, they had never ridden my bike with full panniers downhill and tried to stop it from 30+ mph!!!! It used to have M-brakes, and I went through a set of pads every couple of weeks, which was rather expensive. Good quality pads as well, I experimented with several types before settling with a hybrid pad that offered best performance for road/soft off-road cycling.

Since then the Claud Butler was stolen in Edinburgh, and I went through my car crash, which kinda put an end to my cycling for a while. As said earlier, I have been slowly moving back into it, particularly since I was told that I am no longer allowed to run competitively any more due to the metal pin in my leg. In fact, even when I have tried to run as a hobby, I get about a week in and start to suffer considerable pain in my knee, which is not overly enjoyable!! However I can still cycle happily, as there is no impact involved.

Anyway, the reason behind this post is to ask all you guys advice about suitable frames. I have not really kept up with technology here for a while, so I have no idea what is considered good/bad anymore. I am looking for a rugged yet light weight frame that has mounting points for a pannier rack, front and back if possible. It also needs to have disc caliper mounting brackets. Also, anyone know if you can fit a front rack to suspension forks?? The bike will end up as an effective re-placement for the road bike, as I have no real desire to go into road bike cycling now (used to, but gets kinda boring for me), and also if I build this bike I need to get rid of one, three bikes start to create interesting transport probs :) . However it will also be used for light off-road use (trails/forest tracks etc) so needs to be rugged enough to cope. To swap between roles I shall build two sets of cranks and wheels, to allow me to easily swap between high gear ratios for road and low for touring.

I am looking to build this at home to my own spec, so I am really looking for a frame, as I can pick up the rest easily enough. Brakes wise I shall be using the same as what is on the mountain bike (Hope M4's, with oversized discs, which I know from painful experience have a lot of stopping power!!), and gear ratios will be custom chosen as well to suit me.

And, just to settle any questions as to the reasoning behind touring, this is something I used to do with my father years back, and I am aware that when I get another triumph money may well be on the short side. In order to preserve the money side until I start earning properly (at least three years time) I can use the bike to go on holiday around Scotland!! Also gives me a mode of transport whilst working on the car.

I look forward to hearing all advice given, which from the quantity of cyclists on here will be of good quality!! And apologies for making you all read my mini essay, congrats to those who made it to the end.

Cheers,

Phil

Email Address Thebrookster (Phill)?

Sun, 20 May 2012 08:13:55 +0000

Hi,

Does anyone have the email address of Phill?
Can't find his anymore and I don't think sending a pm has much use, as he hasn't logged in here in a long time..

Thanks,

Frederick

What i've done to my Car this week!

Sat, 19 May 2012 15:32:26 +0000

Ok,

just had a thought from another thread I just posted,

For all of us that havent got the time, or like me ,the computer know how ,to keep a 'blog' both interesting And up to date! or are too busy reading all the other excellent blogs(Dave) then, what about posting here what youve done to your car this week,that may be of interest,

I'll start then,
This week I did a compression test,which showed( after the advce of you guys) my cyl head to be 'tall' and the cr probably down at the 8:1 mark, so a head skim is now imminent! ;)
Also been fiddling with carbs, screwing up the jets to the bridge,then down 2 turns as a base to set mixture.

Next,

Roy 8)

Check Out This Thread! Gt6 Spitfire Modded.....

Fri, 18 May 2012 16:40:52 +0000

Hi all just found this thread, nice car gets crashed into........ However it has great shots of Subaru diff conversion, w58 gearbox conversion. Check it out.

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?19020-Triumph-Spitfire-six-revival-now-with-first-layer-of-paint

Totally random.
Chris.

James' EFI Saloon Thread

Fri, 18 May 2012 10:12:14 +0000

So the plan is to get together a kit of parts to EFI the saloon's new engine - though it will be run on carbs initially.

Today I "machined" my throttle bodies...

(actually these won't be the ones I use - I have a set of earlier ones - but I thought I'd test out the 14mm drill bit on these first)

Works a treat using the hammer setting on the drill - and saves the cost of machining - thanks goes to GT6Mike for this tip :)

James

Craig's GT6 MK3 in Aus.

Thu, 17 May 2012 21:15:41 +0000

I've always loved small British cars.  At 22 I bought a nice looking but dodgy 67 MGB and spent 5 years continually repairing it as a daily driver.  Great fun, but bloody frustrating, and (to be honest) a slug off the line. In 93, it broke yet again, and I parked it, and spent half the money the smokey motor MGB fix would have cost buying a registered and (allegedly roadworthy) 71 Corona Wagon.  The MG was now offically a Garage Princess, and the Corona gave 4 years of maintenance free service till the angry redhead™ ex smacked it into a curb late one night. (She was driving home from dropping me off at a Bucks night)

I totally planned to fix/restore/resurrect the MG till the day I walked past a local exotic dealers yard, and saw a tiny red coupe.  It looked like someone had forgotten an E-type Jag in a tumble dryer.  Small, but with gorgeous feminine curves, a looooong bonnet, a lift up front end, and a 2 litre motor.  The salesman explained it was a Triumph GT6 MK2.   I had to drive it.

Luckily, when I did, I'd spent over half a decade driving a dodgy MGB. Sure, it didn't track real well, the gearbox was full of guesses not gears, the back end broke out if I wasn't really careful, the drivers window didn't wind down, and the radio didn't work.  Who needs a radio, handling, or windy windows.  The sound of of that straight six winding up had me utterly hooked.  I just wanted it.  (on a visceral level)   Crawling underneath it afterwards and finding the rust in the floor pans, boot, and chassis overriders, I realised that I was finally growing up, and I passed.

But the hook was struck, and deep set.  I sold the MG to someone who knew how to fix it, borrowed a lot more from the bank, and bought a GT6 Mk3 sight unseen, from 2000 kms away.  I had it inspected first by a seemingly knowledgeable source, but budgeted an extra 25% of the purchase costs to sort out any problems.

I got it off the truck, drove 2 miles, and while shifting from 2nd to third, broke a tooth off third. I was a complete mechanical numpty back then, so I gave it to a so called expert, who rebuilt it, charged me many dollars, and gave it back. Two months later, 2nd gear went. Not the same gear = no warranty. I went to another "expert" and had it rebuilt again. This one lasted 3 weeks, and 3rd went again. I declared it haunted and parked it for a while. When I calmed down (3 months later), I took it to a more reputable firm, and asked them to have a look. My 25% was well and truly spent, but , well, whats just a little more?

"It's the wrong gearbox, if we rebuild it it'll break again, leave it with us, we'll fit a bigger box..."

So, I agreed to leave it with them for a month. Near the end of the month I dropped in to see how they were going. The business had gone broke, my car was in bits, and the liquidator gave me the choice of paying an exorbitant sum (more than I'd agreed on for the fix) to get the thing back (still in bits), or hand over the title. No way was I going to let the smarmy suit win, so I scraped together the dollars, and arrived with a towtruck.

At this point I'd bought a car and 3 gearboxes, but had a car and no gearbox, who's interior was strewn with bits of gearboxes. Angry, dissapointed and broke, I towed it to an available spot in my garage, and parked it.

Fast-Foward 14 years,

The GT6 was still where I'd left it, and my landlord booted me out. Move it or lose it time. I decided 14 years is long enough to stay angry, and visited the shed and looked at the old girl to see how she was. Saggy tires, and covered in 14 years of dust, dirt, and the odd possum dropping. Not looking good. Still I pumped up her tires, threw her on a trailer, and took her to our new home via a carwash.

The wash revealed mostly good news. The paintwork was pretty tatty, and needs some work, but the resting place she'd been in was dry and mostly warm, and she's pretty much rust free. Emptying out the parts from the interior reveals that everything was there, just a few bonus bellhousings and gearbox casings. The tunnels been opened up, but not too badly, and suddenly it's time to show the old girl some love.

My ability with spanners has improved since the mid 90's, so this time I'm going it alone...

Turns out, the drivetrain is a bit of a hotchpotch. The engine block is a HB/HE series from an early Vitesse 2 litre, and the gearbox is a HB series from a 1600 Vitesse with a laycock overdrive.. No wonder it kept breaking. I'd really like to meet one of the "experts" who fixed it for me back then. "You must have driven it too hard" Yeah. Right. BASTARDS.

Step one was to build a FrankenToyoTriBox.  The area between the flywheel and the diff is now filled with a gearbox created from two toyota 5 speed T50 boxes, a GT6 Bell-housing, a couple of custom plates and a new driveshaft.  Happy to post the process if anyones interested.

Since then she's been registered and roadworthied, and I had the fun of driving her on the road.  Then I decided to fiddle...

More to come...

Craig

Sourcing Temp Sender And Boss?

Thu, 17 May 2012 05:21:13 +0000

Hi,
I've just dropped my radiator in for a re-core and realised it's the ideal time to fit a modern temp sender so Megajolt can control the fan, rather than relying on something shoved in to one of the pipes.

Anyone know where I can get a sender and mounting boss - scrap isn't really an option as property prices mean every scrap dealer near me is now a block of flats

Cheers.

Muscle Building.

Wed, 16 May 2012 10:35:26 +0000

Think I'm ready for some weight lifting, nothing too serious.

First job is to ebay up a cheap used incline bench so I can start growing breasts.

I got weights already but I'm not happy doing static lifts as I seem to be quite strong considering I'm a skinny. I need alot of weight to get the rep's down, concerned I'll end up compressed under the bar as I don't have access to a spotter ;D

Nicks Vitesse

Tue, 15 May 2012 20:53:48 +0000

1967 Vitesse 2L convertible aka "The Skip" Specification subject to change without notice :)

Don't seem to be able to upload pics atm to try this link instead

http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=574&i=5

Nick

Vehicle: Triumph Gt6 Gt Mk 3 (1972)

Tue, 15 May 2012 20:35:39 +0000

Name: triumph gt6 gt mk 3 (1972)
Date Added: 15 May 2012 - 08:35 PM
Owner: steveleckey
Short Description: this is the car before i started cutting the rot out?

View Vehicle

Adjustment Of Dhla Pump Mechanism

Tue, 15 May 2012 18:46:44 +0000

In my ongoing quest to solve the hesitation that is affecting my Lotus Excel, I've noticed that the nut + locknut which set the accelerator pump stroke are in different positions on the two carbs. There looks to be about 2 - 3 turns difference between them, and as far as I know they have never been adjusted. I borrowed a pump tool and the volumes all seem to be even, 7cc +/- 0.5cc.

However, I'm wondering whether one pump is starting to operate before the other, and if it might be causing my problem - the engine runs smoothly at a constant 1800 - 2000 rpm, the hesitation only starts when I accelerate.

The Des Hamill bible says thou shalt not adjust thy pump strokes, but I've fitted an overhaul kit which included new diaphragms, so surely after this some adjustment may be needed? Should there be any free play between the end of the pump actuator arm, and the brass plunger attached to the diaphragm? Or should it be resting against it under non-accelerating conditions?

Thanks for your thoughts...

E Type Jag Install

Tue, 15 May 2012 13:23:54 +0000

A local friend is producing a beautifully engineered kit to convert the E Types to EDIS. I'm proud to say I've been involved in the AC fitted version of the trials. It was a fully developed kit for the standard model but we've jumped thru hoops for the AC cars. Nonetheless, we finished it this morning and was immediately rewarded with a rock stable 600 RPM idle. The car seemed to pull smoothly all the way past the redline to 5500. I'm totally chuffed. To celebrate, I loaded the bride into the car and went to the pub where I talked it up mightily, so pleased....You get it right? Came out to the 100 degree F afternoon sun, loaded the bride onto the hot leather seats and.......Nothing. Of course. Took Pat back into the pub and then tweaked and twisted wires to no avail. I THINK! there's a problem at the white wire connection to the coilpack but I had no tools beyond a toothpick. So now the tow truck has brought it back home and we will start diagnostics.... BUT DAMN IT WAS RUNNING NICE!!!!

Really greasy dirty pics here:
http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb46/GT6Steve/Jag%20Megajolt/

Hey, it's a daily driver!!!!

Stag Engine Rebuild

Mon, 14 May 2012 18:34:39 +0000

Whilst I would be the first to admit I dont know a great deal about stuff, I have in the dim past rebuilt a AH Sprite engine, and although I would rather have this done for me, finances mean its either I do it, or walk away from the car.

I discovered water in a couple of cylinders, so this weekend I will be removing the engine and having a better look to see whats needed. (Its been standing for about 7 years, so I expect trouble)

I dont want to modify anything anymore than is sensible and straightforward because all I really want is a car that I can drive about rather than one taking up space in the garage looking ill.

Just hoping that I can ask dumb questions as I go and get some decent advice.

I am armed with a 1 ton crane, the workshop manual and some spanners. Why do I feel so worried!

Thapper.

Aaaaaaaaargh Asiasifbhf0Asdf7Asf;'#;'#

Mon, 14 May 2012 18:03:39 +0000

Feel like torching the Spitfire at the moment. I've spent all weekend faffing about with the rear suspension. What was supposed to be a 30 min - 1 hour remove the spring, polybush and refit the spring with a lowering block, has turned into a frigging nightmare. Probably wasted 15 hours now faffing with it.

Aside from the polybushing (which only took ages as I didn't realise the outer metal sleeve from the original bush needed removing), nothing seems to have worked.

The 1/2" lowering block was machined as such that it wouldn't fit in the diff, so the edges had to be ground back. Then it turned out the center locating hole wasn't quite the right diameter, so had to be drilled out with a 1/2" drill bit. One of the stud holes wasn't quite right so had to be slightly modified.

The worst part however is I can't get the bloody spring back in, even without the lowering block - the thing drops in nicely with the shear pin locating now whether the lowering block is in or not, but I can't get the studs in. Whatever orientation I put the spring clamp plates in, the holes never seem to line up. I can't even get the studs in while it's hovering slightly above, to then tighten the whole thing down.

I could probably do it without the clamp plate on, but then the through bolt would be impossible to get on once the spring is on the diff. I can't believe this thing ever fitted, it must have been done with the bodyshell of because its bloody impossible. Is there anything different I can do to get this car back together?

Someone please help me out here as I'm extremely fed up after having wasted an entire weekend on this!!!

Wheels Gt6 Compomotive

Sun, 13 May 2012 19:05:35 +0000

Hi,
I´m absolutely pi..ed with the quality of the KN Minator (Minilite design) wheels on my cars. Its very difficult to balance them. The 5 x 13 on the Spitfire a really very bad. So changed to the 5,5 x 13 from the GT6 which werde much better, but still not very good. Leaving the 5,5 on the Spit means, new wheels for the GT6.

Has anybody experience with Compomotive i.e. CXR 1355?

Cheers
Martin

Music!

Sun, 13 May 2012 11:03:06 +0000

I have been a wannabe musician for the last two decades :)
My chosen instrument is the Bass, though I have replaced guitarists when they've decided to break wrists and fingers.

Highlights of my not so glorious bottom-feeding pastime have been concerts at the Botanique (Brussels) the KuFa and Rockhal (Luxembourg), free beer, drugs, and stunning women (especially in Metz ;D). Now I only get free beer, and it's rationed in these hard times.

Bizarre bits; a concert with Boney M in front of 50 people in a place that could hold 4000, a riot in Pont-�-Mousson (of all places), and being paid a grand despite not playing one concert in Brussels (wish that could happen more!).

My latest band, stodgy rock so I don't have to move my hands too much: http://www.myspace.com/dizzygood
or http://www.dizzygood.com/

Little anecdote: My first band was a heavy-metal cum thrash band. Of the four members the guitarist, drummer and vocalist/guitarist all actually make a living making music, while I work for a f**king printers. Not that I'm jealous (or incredibly lazy) :D

Basic Dhlae Tuning Questions

Sat, 12 May 2012 09:52:53 +0000

I've got twin DHLA's on a tuned pinto - it makes good power but is a bit of a pig off idle/cruise. It was set up on rolling road 10 years ago for racing so not much attention was paid to part throttle response - some of the jets were drilled. It will only idle when the butterfly is half way accross the 2nd progression hole, the air bleeds are closed and the mixture screws are srewed out quite a way - maybe 5 or 6 turns but thay have little effect anyway. Ignition looks to have enough advance. The AFR is rich accross the board from 10 to 12 - idles at 12.5. I've played around with floats a bit but doesn't appear to change a great deal going +- 1mm from spec.

Where do I start - I still can't get my head around carbs but intend to learn - I guess the idle circuit is far too lean so the need to move onto the progression circuit? (idle jet is too small or the idle air bleed is too big?)

2.1 pinto
twin DHLAE40's
fr33 cam, BV head
32mm choke
145 main jet
120 air corrector
7772.5 tubes
54 idle jet
7850.1 tube
(not sure which jets have been drilled though)

thanks in advance

Jeremy

Vehicle: Gt6

Sat, 12 May 2012 08:23:14 +0000

Hi,
its now a year that I dismantled the engine of the GT6 detecting all the damage
The car is still sleeping, however first signs show up entailing work for the wintertime. I like the winter in the workshop
Martin

Attached Images

Odd Piston Wear

Fri, 11 May 2012 14:12:36 +0000

One for the experienced engine builders here:

Following on from the pics on page 5 of this thread
http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/5167-nick-mk2-pi/page__st__80

I dropped the block, pistons and a couple cranks (thanks Andy!) off for measuring today. The engine man grabbed a piston and immediately picked up on something I'd not spotted..... the piston has an asymmetric wear mark on the thrust and opposite sides (perpendicular to the wrist pin axis), as though it's been running at a slight angle in the bore. His first response was "bent rod", but when we found all 6 have exactly the same wear mark that theory wasn't looking so likely.

So what the hell is it? 6 identically bent rods seems a bit unlikely....... though I guess they could have been incorrectly machined. Could it be that the bores are not perpendicular to the crank axis?

Apart from the rust damage the bores are actually pretty fair.

I'll try a swing by there tomorrow and get a pic to help describe it.

Cheers

Nick

Ongoing Improvements.

Fri, 11 May 2012 09:09:20 +0000

I've installed a mod that shows the Last Post in any active thread (for up to 10 posts) in the sidebar.

Not perfect, but a start. Also plugged in a gallery preview, hopefully it will stimulate some interest, and get more folks posting there (must get off my arse there myself).

Planning to shrink the Shoutbox across to the sidebar as well, it's done it's time at the top of the page, ben good for getting instant feedback, but now people know how to use it, and what it does, we don't need it mastheading the site. Have already restricted it to the index page only.

C.

Vehicle: Suzuki Bandit N600 (1999)

Thu, 10 May 2012 20:34:58 +0000

Name: Suzuki Bandit N600 (1999)
Date Added: 09 May 2012 - 07:18 PM
Owner: SteveA
Short Description: Bought this early May 2012 to replace my BMW E21 as I was getting fed up with paying the high road tax for a vehicle I was not using much, so I bought this instead, which means I can also get over the Severn bridge for free.

View Vehicle

Gt6 Timing Cover

Tue, 08 May 2012 16:42:47 +0000

anyone got tips on getting timing cover back on when engine in car i.e hold tension off tensioner also water pump still in car rad out bonnet on so im all contorted as you do twisting around the front cheers some one said with wire? how you strap it under tension? cheers

Triumph Spitfire Gt6 Front Spoiler

Tue, 08 May 2012 11:55:31 +0000

Ok guy's Ive spoken to Graham at T6 Fabrications and we have come up with some numbers.
Here is the spoiler we are wanting to do.

Ok so we would firstly need to get an original spoiler. Im gonna try to get the Swiss race team owner to send an original to Graham at T6.
This will reduce the production costs. Now 15 would be the smallest amount we could produce and Graham said that they would cost about £100 each.

Iam willing to take four so I have some spare and I'm thinking of bribing the original owner with One as a thank you for sending the original one over. I'm planning to cover the transport costs to and from the original owner so all thats needed now is To find out who else would potentially want one for about £100+ delivery. In total we would need to sell another 10 so please stick your name down and I'm going to start trying to negotiate with the original's owner. I really want to make this work out as I think it really belongs on the T6. As I'm sure you have noticed I will be loosing out (financially) alot on this so we can actually get it done. Fingers crossed.

Chris.

Cam Install.

Tue, 08 May 2012 11:44:02 +0000

Hello again gents,
I'm currently in the midst of a rebuild with the aim of making it to a show on the 26th of this month (50 years of the spitty!)

I have a new cam to go into my mk3, and i've never done this before.

It is a "High Torque" cam from Jigsaw (made by Newman cams)

the info I have on it is:

duration= 270

lift= 435

and "install figure" =108-110 after TDC.

I've been watching videos of americans putting cams into V8 engines, but they all seem to have much more info than I do , like numbers on where the valves start opening and when they close.

I'm a bit lost as to where to start.
If i simply line up the cam the same as the original timing marks, is that how it's supposed to work?, straight in like that?
What does the install figure actually mean?

Any answers, especially pointing out anything obvious that my newbie brain hasn't grasped, will be much appreciated.
cheers,

-Jim

Aaron's Spitfire

Tue, 08 May 2012 10:15:45 +0000

Well, seeing as someone thought I was on here anyway I thought I'd join up - especially now you're up and running again!

Anyway, I'm Aaron; I'm 17 and I own a Flamenco Red 1977 Triumph Spitfire 1500. I bought from the previous owner - who worked on an abandoned WWII RAF airfield - and the airfield police chased us thinking we were doing wheelies! (it wasn't TOO abandoned) It was right opposite the Tangmere aviation museam too, so maybe they bought it thinking it was a very cheap RAF fighter...?

It currently resides in my garage, awaiting new bearings for the front wheels :)

Aaron

Setting DHLA Dell'Orto Dellorto Float / Fuel Level

Tue, 08 May 2012 07:55:11 +0000

How to :

Setup and adjust correct and accurate DHLA40, DHLA45, DHLA48 C,D,E,F,G,H,L,M,P,R,S,T emission and non emission fuel levels and float levels.

First we need to understand there are 3 types of float.

They all look similar! They all need to be catered for in their own setting.

Below shows the EARLY 10gram float, used in some, early types of DHLA40, DHLA40E, DHLA40F (early), also some early DHLA45 and DHLA48

Below shows the 7 and 8.5gram floats which became the "norm" for all carbs after about 1972.

These 7 and 8.5gram are similar in setting, but the 10gram needs a different setting.

I prefer the heavy EARLY 10gram float for some reason, more constant fuel level and running in my opinion. I always fit these to my carbs set at 17.5mm initial setting or 18mm using SUPERIOR Viton Tipped needle valves.

For a given fluid level, a lighter float will naturally ride higher .....

Either the weight or the float part number should be engraved on the float.  3 types the 7g,  8.5g  and 10.0g floats.

The basic part number for the floats is 7298-_ _   with two final digits for each specific weight:

01 = 10g        16.5 - 17.0 mm (float height start setting)
02 = 8.5g       15.5 - 16.0 mm
03 = 7.0g       14.5 - 15.0 mm

Above and below images show the needle valve has a spring inside. ALL static adjustments to float heights MUST be done with the lever tab on the float touching the rounded tip on the needle valve shaft, but NOT compressing the spring at all when the measurement is taken.

Below shows the distance A, which depending on the float used 7,8.5 or 10gram and will be initially set to the figures quoted above. Fit the new valves and assemble the float and cover (with gasket!).

Set your calipers to the figure quote and to work with your float weight, check they are accurate with a ruler or micrometer and proceed to tweak the float, if needed, this is to obtain the correct figure at the floats furthest extremity (A) from the needle valve.

As shown below in other images, to adjust the float level tweak the floats.

As seen below. It helps to hold the carb top vertically or just off vertical unless you are an octopus. This is so the float tab rests naturally against the needle valves rounded tip.

This MUST be done with the top plate gasket in place.

Most people just finish here and call that setup. This is just stupid, as it often does not translate into a good fuel level in the carb. Depending on if metal or viton tipped needle valved are used and also the valve body can be No1 or No2, floats may have been "butchered" by previous "engineers".

So this is where my technique starts. I use the above info ONLY for reference and initial setup to start off the correct adjustment.

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After the above is done, if the carburettors are not bolted to the car, fit them now, but do not fit the top linkage or filters, as you will be removing the float covers and floats and will need to look down the barrels for leaking.

Before adding the fuel pipes to the carbs test the fuel pressure first.

Set at 3psi if using metal valves and up to 5psi if using viton.

Once this is set, fix the fuel pipes to the carbs but do not fill the bowls or operate the electric pump yet. (I hope you are using one!)

Its important to do this on the car, as different fitments/manifolds give a different "angle" or rake to the carb, the main-jet stack must be supplied with a proper fuel level.

Firstly remove two of the top plate cover screws, so each top plate (float cover) is being held down with only two screws.

Below image shows why is it important to leave two screws in place till you are "perfected" in your technique here...

The choke plunger will spring the top plate upwards with no screws in place, so giving a poor reading and leakage if you allow this to happen at any time during this calibration.

Its VERY important to keep the float cover sat firmly on the carb at all times when setting the "fuel bowl levels" ~ to the all important setting so often ignored through ignorance or naivity.

Below shows where the top needs to be while the pump is filling, down on the mating surface, also it needs to be here all the time, till you quickly WHIP it off to check the fuel level.

The gasket needs to be under compression too.

Get your caliper and set to 27mm!!!!!!!! check the pointy end you will be using is actually set to 27mm in length with a ruler or micrometer and that its accurate to 0.5mm.

You are now ready to fill the fuel bowls. So flick on the pump...Wait for 20seconds. Flick it off, look down inside the barrel into the venturi, if you can see fuel dripping from the venturi the bowl has a bit too much fuel in or you valve is worn if they were not new or you got ripped off with some crap kits from EBAY.

No biggy if the valves are new and good, you will be adjusting and checking it anyway.

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Now you need to remove the top plate and use the depth gauge part of the caliper.

NOW ITS VERY IMPORTANT TO DO AS I SAY!

Fuel level setting is VERY IMPORTANT AND IS 27mm from the top face of the carb body down to the fuel.

Pump is off, if not turn it off!!! Wait for a minute for pressure to fall BEFORE removing the carburettor top.

Work on one carb at once.

If the fuel lines are not flexible it may help to remove them from the carb you are working on.

Put your one hand spanning the top of the carburettor top, float cover and put on some decent downward force with your fingers at each corner. Now undo the two screws...Remove them. Drop the screwdriver and quickly (under 1second) whip off the float cover/carburettor top and move it to oneside.

You need to do this quickly before the float drops and more fuel is dribbled into the bowl when you raise the top away from the body.

You now have the fuel exposed.

Get the depth caliper in position as shown below. About 3mm off the wall of the central tower, at the back of the jet stack...Not at the edge or running down the wall as the liquid will radius here, but slightly away from the jet stack. The tip of the depth measure should just make contact with the fuel.

If its too high and the tip is well into the liquid, maybe use the container the valve came in to bail out some fuel, a good amount. (wear gloves! Yuck!). If too low, read on.

Below shows an unadjusted float.

Fuel level too low, tweak up the end of the float, as shown below. (this is a dramatisation! Do not tweak as much as this!!!) a millimetre or 0.040" at time. If the bowl is 2mm low, go up 2mm on the float!

Fuel level too high and venturi leaks? Tweak it down as needed.

If you have brought VITON Valves I recommend ONLY using them. They can "plump" up a bit after being exposed to fuel for the first time, so leave them to soak in some fuel for alteast 1hr before fitting them and calibrating fuel levels.

I have some stock of OE spec Kits or http://www.dellorto.co.uk can supply.

You can do the above adjustment with the carb top on by removing the main jets and jet cover from the carburettor and sticking the depth probe down main jet stack hole, but its hard to see etc chances are you will need to make some adjustment and remove the top anyway.

Ebay KITS ARE JUNK. Bar some RCA Ricambi Kits...Its RCA or OE Dellorto or NOTHING!

Hope this helps demystifty something so simple!

Timing Chains

Tue, 08 May 2012 07:13:57 +0000

Quick question;
Done about 200miles now on this new engine, and now that I'm getting there with the tune (which is harder than said as the vacuum advance has snapped off the dizzy)
I'm now going round the car listening for rattles or odd noises. Most pronoucned is at the front of the engine, a clatter, either at the front, or front-bottom of the engine.

Do timing chains have a 'right way round' - I'm reusing old chain which was fine and dandy in the last engine - but i was wondering if they get used to going a certain direction?

I'll be taking the chain cover off this weekend (and dropping the sump to change the oil).
Anything else that could give this clatter/tinny noise? Doesn't seem to be any play in the waterpump, and pressing the clutch up and down doesn't move the front pulley around.