<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?>
<rss version="2.0">
<channel>
	<title>Technical Discussions</title>
	<description>Combination of technical discussions</description>
	<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums</link>
	<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 14:42:46 +0000</pubDate>
	<ttl>10</ttl>
	<item>
		<title>Sourcing Temp Sender And Boss?</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6135-sourcing-temp-sender-and-boss/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi,<br />
I've just dropped my radiator in for a re-core and realised it's the ideal time to fit a modern temp sender so Megajolt can control the fan, rather than relying on something shoved in to one of the pipes.<br />
<br />
Anyone know where I can get a sender and mounting boss - scrap isn't really an option as property prices mean every scrap dealer near me is now a block of flats <img src='http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':(' /><br />
<br />
Cheers.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 May 2012 14:42:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6135-sourcing-temp-sender-and-boss/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Adjustment Of Dhla Pump Mechanism</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6133-adjustment-of-dhla-pump-mechanism/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[In my ongoing quest to solve the hesitation that is affecting my Lotus Excel, I've noticed that the nut + locknut which set the accelerator pump stroke are in different positions on the two carbs. There looks to be about 2 - 3 turns difference between them, and as far as I know they have never been adjusted. I borrowed a pump tool and the volumes all seem to be even, 7cc +/- 0.5cc.<br />
<br />
However, I'm wondering whether one pump is starting to operate before the other, and if it might be causing my problem - the engine runs smoothly at a constant 1800 - 2000 rpm, the hesitation only starts when I accelerate.<br />
<br />
The Des Hamill bible says thou shalt not adjust thy pump strokes, but I've fitted an overhaul kit which included new diaphragms, so surely after this some adjustment may be needed? Should there be any free play between the end of the pump actuator arm, and the brass plunger attached to the diaphragm? Or should it be resting against it under non-accelerating conditions?<br />
<br />
Thanks for your thoughts...]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 15 May 2012 18:46:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6133-adjustment-of-dhla-pump-mechanism/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>E Type Jag Install</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6132-e-type-jag-install/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[A local friend is producing a beautifully engineered kit to convert the E Types to EDIS. I'm proud to say I've been involved in the AC fitted version of the trials. It was a fully developed kit for the standard model but we've jumped thru hoops for the AC cars. Nonetheless, we finished it this morning and was immediately rewarded with a rock stable 600 RPM idle. The car seemed to pull smoothly all the way past the redline to 5500. I'm totally chuffed. To celebrate, I loaded the bride into the car and went to the pub where I talked it up mightily, so pleased....You get it right? Came out to the 100 degree F afternoon sun, loaded the bride onto the hot leather seats and.......Nothing. Of course. Took Pat back into the pub and then tweaked and twisted wires to no avail. I THINK! there's a problem at the white wire connection to the coilpack but I had no tools beyond a toothpick. So now the tow truck has brought it back home and we will start diagnostics.... BUT DAMN IT WAS RUNNING NICE!!!! <img src='http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/sorcerer.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':sorcerer:' /><br />
<br />
Really greasy dirty pics here:<br />
<a href='http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb46/GT6Steve/Jag%20Megajolt/' class='bbc_url' title='External link' rel='nofollow external'>http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb46/GT6Steve/Jag%20Megajolt/</a><br />
<br />
<br />
Hey, it's a daily driver!!!!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 14 May 2012 00:25:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6132-e-type-jag-install/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Aaaaaaaaargh Asiasifbhf0Asdf7Asf;'#;'#]]></title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6131-aaaaaaaaargh-asiasifbhf0asdf7asf/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Feel like torching the Spitfire at the moment. I've spent all weekend faffing about with the rear suspension. What was supposed to be a 30 min - 1 hour remove the spring, polybush and refit the spring with a lowering block, has turned into a frigging nightmare. Probably wasted 15 hours now faffing with it.<br />
<br />
Aside from the polybushing (which only took ages as I didn't realise the outer metal sleeve from the original bush needed removing), nothing seems to have worked.<br />
<br />
The 1/2" lowering block was machined as such that it wouldn't fit in the diff, so the edges had to be ground back. Then it turned out the center locating hole wasn't quite the right diameter, so had to be drilled out with a 1/2" drill bit. One of the stud holes wasn't quite right so had to be slightly modified.<br />
<br />
The worst part however is I can't get the bloody spring back in, <span class='bbc_underline'>even without the lowering block</span> - the thing drops in nicely with the shear pin locating now whether the lowering block is in or not, but I can't get the studs in. Whatever orientation I put the spring clamp plates in, the holes never seem to line up. I can't even get the studs in while it's hovering slightly above, to then tighten the whole thing down.<br />
<br />
I could probably do it without the clamp plate on, but then the through bolt would be impossible to get on once the spring is on the diff. I can't believe this thing ever fitted, it must have been done with the bodyshell of because its bloody impossible. Is there anything different I can do to get this car back together?<br />
<br />
Someone please help me out here as I'm extremely fed up after having wasted an entire weekend on this!!!]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 May 2012 19:46:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6131-aaaaaaaaargh-asiasifbhf0asdf7asf/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Wheels Gt6 Compomotive</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6130-wheels-gt6-compomotive/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi,<br />
I´m absolutely pi..ed with the quality of the KN Minator (Minilite design) wheels on my cars. Its very difficult to balance them. The 5 x 13 on the Spitfire a really very bad. So changed to the 5,5 x 13 from the GT6 which werde much better, but still not very good. Leaving the 5,5 on the Spit means, new wheels for the GT6.<br />
<br />
Has anybody experience with Compomotive i.e. CXR 1355?<br />
<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
Martin]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 11 May 2012 07:55:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6130-wheels-gt6-compomotive/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Stag Engine Rebuild</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6129-stag-engine-rebuild/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Whilst I would be the first to admit I dont know a great deal about stuff, I have in the dim past rebuilt a AH Sprite engine, and although I would rather have this done for me, finances mean its either I do it, or walk away from the car.<br />
<br />
I discovered water in a couple of cylinders, so this weekend I will be removing the engine and having a better look to see whats needed.  (Its been standing for about 7 years, so I expect trouble)<br />
<br />
I dont want to modify anything anymore than is sensible and straightforward because all I really want is a car that I can drive about rather than one taking up space in the garage looking ill.<br />
<br />
Just hoping that I can ask dumb questions as I go and get some decent advice.<br />
<br />
I am armed with a 1 ton crane, the workshop manual and some spanners.  Why do I feel so worried!<br />
<br />
Thapper.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2012 13:03:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6129-stag-engine-rebuild/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Basic Dhlae Tuning Questions</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6128-basic-dhlae-tuning-questions/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I've got twin DHLA's on a tuned pinto - it makes good power but is a bit of a pig off idle/cruise. It was set up on rolling road 10 years ago for racing so not much attention was paid to part throttle response - some of the jets were drilled. It will only idle when the butterfly is half way accross the 2nd progression hole, the air bleeds are closed and the mixture screws are srewed out quite a way - maybe 5 or 6 turns but thay have little effect anyway. Ignition looks to have enough advance. The AFR is rich accross the board from 10 to 12 - idles at 12.5. I've played around with floats a bit but doesn't appear to change a great deal going +- 1mm from spec.<br />
<br />
Where do I start - I still can't get my head around carbs but intend to learn - I guess the idle circuit is far too lean so the need to move onto the progression circuit? (idle jet is too small or the idle air bleed is too big?)<br />
<br />
2.1 pinto<br />
twin DHLAE40's<br />
fr33 cam, BV head<br />
32mm choke<br />
145 main jet<br />
120 air corrector<br />
7772.5 tubes<br />
54 idle jet<br />
7850.1 tube<br />
(not sure which jets have been drilled though)<br />
<br />
thanks in advance<br />
<br />
Jeremy]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 10 May 2012 07:58:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6128-basic-dhlae-tuning-questions/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Gt6 Timing Cover</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6125-gt6-timing-cover/</link>
		<description>anyone got tips on getting timing cover back on when engine in car i.e hold tension off tensioner also water pump still in car rad out bonnet on so im all contorted as you do twisting around the front cheers some one said with wire? how you strap it under tension? cheers</description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 May 2012 20:04:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6125-gt6-timing-cover/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Cam Install.</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6120-cam-install/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hello again gents,<br />
I'm currently in the midst of a rebuild with the aim of making it to a show on the 26th of this month (50 years of the spitty!)<br />
<br />
I have a new cam to go into my mk3, and i've never done this before.<br />
<br />
It is a "High Torque" cam from Jigsaw (made by Newman cams)<br />
<br />
the info I have on it is:<br />
<br />
duration= 270<br />
<br />
lift= 435<br />
<br />
and "install figure" =108-110 after TDC.<br />
<br />
I've been watching videos of americans putting cams into V8 engines, but they all seem to have much more info than I do , like numbers on where the valves start opening and when they close.<br />
<br />
I'm a bit lost as to where to start.<br />
If i simply line up the cam the same as the original timing marks, is that how it's supposed to work?, straight in like that?<br />
What does the install figure actually mean?<br />
<br />
Any answers, especially pointing out anything obvious that my newbie brain hasn't grasped, will be much appreciated.<br />
cheers,<br />
<br />
-Jim]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 05 May 2012 09:00:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6120-cam-install/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Timing Chains</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6118-timing-chains/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Quick question;<br />
Done about 200miles now on this new engine, and now that I'm getting there with the tune (which is harder than said as the vacuum advance has snapped off the dizzy) <br />
I'm now going round the car listening for rattles or odd noises. Most pronoucned is at the front of the engine, a clatter, either at the front, or front-bottom of the engine.<br />
<br />
Do timing chains have a 'right way round' -  I'm reusing old chain which was fine and dandy in the last engine - but i was wondering if they get used to going a certain direction?<br />
<br />
I'll be taking the chain cover off this weekend (and dropping the sump to change the oil).<br />
Anything else that could give this clatter/tinny noise? Doesn't seem to be any play in the waterpump, and pressing the clutch up and down doesn't move the front pulley around.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 May 2012 14:56:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6118-timing-chains/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Sequential Efi Ramblings</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6117-sequential-efi-ramblings/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[As I very very slowly collect bits, bobs and knick-knacks for turning the wreck into a motor vehicle worthy of the label, I've been reading up (as you do).<br />
<br />
For Sequential injection (Yes... I know, don't try to talk me out of it) I have so far ascertained that you need a reading from both the crank (no worries there) and the cam.<br />
<br />
So, how would you guys go about getting a cam reading?<br />
I see three possibilities:<br />
<br />
1. Use the old Dizzy drive gear.<br />
2. Use the old fuel pump's hole or rocker arm mechanism<br />
3. yank the timing cover off and use the cam's chain gear]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 10:11:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6117-sequential-efi-ramblings/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Wohooo - Officially Megajolted :-)</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6116-wohooo-officially-megajolted/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[After a loooong wait I finally got around to megajolting the car last night. When I say that "I got around" that should properly read JensH (AKA The Mad Welder) got around to finish the install <img src='http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/teehee.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':teehee:' /><br />
<br />
We had had quite a bit of troubles with the bracket for the sensor. The only part of the install I had actually done on my own was locating the triggerwheel, and it appears that I put the dang thing in the most stupid place, where it would be pretty close on fouling on the belt.<br />
<br />
Still - after a bit of fiddling and a new bracket we managed to get the sensor seated sensibly - not to close not to far, and just in the right place.<br />
<br />
The wires were installed tidy, and everything wasready for turn of the key.<br />
<br />
<br />
After a 20ish seconds of cranking (hadn't been started for 6 months) the engine started and settled on a very low and very stable idle. Nice <img src='http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/thanks.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':thanks:' /><br />
<br />
I had forgot to bring the right network cable (just brought the adaptor <img src='http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/pinch.gif' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':pinch:' /> ) so we could not upload a map. But the limp home test mode were absolutely brilliant for just testing the install.<br />
<br />
Now on to the fun part - find a map that suits a ported ghead, balanced engine, 1.5SU on a 1300 engine, flowing filters and 4-2-1 manifold :-)<br />
<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
Nick]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 02 May 2012 07:14:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6116-wohooo-officially-megajolted/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Su Hs4 On A Gt6 Mk2?</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6114-su-hs4-on-a-gt6-mk2/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi<br />
<br />
I ran across a gt6 today that suffered some carbproblems. Looking at the carbs I began to understand why.<br />
<br />
The carbs appeared to be HS4 waxstats (waxstat would explain why the car didn't drive well untill heated properly)<br />
<br />
The carblinkage also looked shite.<br />
<br />
In short - the best advise I could offer was to call Andrew Turner and ask for a new set of carbs.<br />
<br />
Now question is - what kind of carbs to get?<br />
<br />
Stick with HS4<br />
Revert to original Strombs (inlet manifold ís the  original 308671 stromb manifold)<br />
Get some HS6<br />
<br />
It is a cable driven accelerator setup, and the owner is more the kind of plug and play type.<br />
<br />
Does the holes on a HS4 match the manifold at all?<br />
<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
Nick]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sun, 29 Apr 2012 20:15:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6114-su-hs4-on-a-gt6-mk2/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Chain Tensioners</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6112-chain-tensioners/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Well, we have that bit of bent tin that the repro ones wears faster than a pair of Asda trainers, fills the engine with swarf and lets the timing wonder all over the place.<br />
<br />
So, I'm looking at this…<br />
<br />
&#91;url="http://www.jigsawracingservices.co.uk/engines.Duplex.jpg"&#93;engines.Duplex.jpg&#91;/url&#93;<br />
<br />
And while perusing the internetz looking at timing tensioners like the Healey 3000 that uses the exact same chain as a Triumph randomly happen across this… A small block Mopar tensioner<br />
<br />
&#91;url="http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/Images/hug6450a.jpg"&#93;hug6450a.jpg&#91;/url&#93;<br />
<br />
&#91;url="http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/chucker54_2209_113250124"&#93;chucker54_2209_113250124&#91;/url&#93;<br />
<br />
<br />
Certainly seems to have enough potential to waste a speculative $40 next time the boy is Stateside<br />
<br />
Opinions?]]></description>
		<pubDate>Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:45:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6112-chain-tensioners/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Ebc4871 Springs</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6109-ebc4871-springs/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Now unobtanium unless someone knows different. Jaguar dealer system shows nil stock and Jag UK have the part listed as 'obsolete'<br />
<br />
Oh well. <img src='http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/public/style_emoticons/default/mellow.png' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':mellow:' />]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 Apr 2012 15:58:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6109-ebc4871-springs/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Nos Vp2's?]]></title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6092-nos-vp2s/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Would NOS bearings in a Leyland twisted arsehole box be VP2's or could they be Glaciers?<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
<br />
Andy]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Apr 2012 13:50:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6092-nos-vp2s/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Dhla Pump Volume</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6089-dhla-pump-volume/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Hi Dave,<br />
I drive a modified - midly tuned Alfetta GTV 2,0.there is no result with my DHLA L Carbs,<br />
So i have decided to overhaul a set of DHLA E. I have changed all wearing parts but there is a problems with the accelerator pump. At the carburetors is a difference between the two channels in the delivery. One time on the left barrel 9 cc- right barrel 7,3 cc. Then left and right barrel 8cc, GOOD!   Testing once more- right approx 9cc, left 6,5 cc. And so on.<br />
Pump weight, pump jet ball bearing, pump diaphragm, diaphragm spring, pump rod spring, been changed. All new parts from Eurocarb, NO junk.<br />
What happens ?<br />
<br />
With Regards]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Apr 2012 18:20:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6089-dhla-pump-volume/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Smart Roadster Engine In Spitfire.</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6088-smart-roadster-engine-in-spitfire/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Ok just thinking about this. might be something for the future.<br />
<br />
SMART ROADSTER 700cc turbo three cylinder engine in a spitfire. I really like these little engines. They are nice but i would want a different gearbox. Does anyone know what gearbox would bolt up and has anyone used these engines for another car? <br />
<br />
The spit is lighter than the roadster and a reliable 115bhp is possible from these engines. The brabus version goes to 120 bhp reliably but i think would cost too much. Its just a thought but what do people think.<br />
<br />
Cheers Chris.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Apr 2012 14:14:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6088-smart-roadster-engine-in-spitfire/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>Megajolt Temperature Correction</title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6084-megajolt-temperature-correction/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[If you have MJ, do this! I set it up on the Megajolt this week and it's made a big difference to how smoothly the car runs on choke when warming up. You use a lot less choke, and it's actually close now to how modern EFI cars are where you can't really tell the difference in running between a cold or a hot car, because it runs okay at any temperature. Power seems to be available to your earlier.<br />
<br />
I used the Classic Mini's 5/8 UNF" 2-pin temperature sensor fitted to multipoint injection models. It directly replaces the old temp gauge sender in the water pump housing without modification, didn't even need the dowty washer I got for it as it seems to have self sealed. You'll need to fit the old temp sender somewhere else if you still want to use it, I fitted mine in a Stanpart stat housing with a 5/8" UNF hole but the gauge behaves very differently after the thermostat now, coming on way later (obviously as the stat is shut) and is a bit less stable.<br />
<br />
For calibration I used the Ford sensor map that's in the Autosport labs forum, but the figures are way off for the Rover/Mini sensor. Cold water shows up as 89C and running temp is 225C (I'm running an 88C stat). I'll work on getting the sensor calibrated so the readings are more meaningful, as then I can get a nice little datalog of running temperature as well which will be great.<br />
<br />
Here's the advance correction as it is now:<br />
<br />
              1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10<br />
Bins       60-80-130-170-200-225-233-240-248-254<br />
Corr      4-3-2-1-0-0-(-1)-(-2)-(-3)-(-4)<br />
<br />
<br />
I've attached a printscreen as well of the correction table. There's no science or that much thought behind these values, but they seem to work well with the map I'm currently running.<br />
<br />
Apologies that this is a bit out of sequence, I should be describing the Megajolt installation first but I still can't find the camera with the in progress build pics I used. Figured its best to get this advance correction discussed now as it's not really covered elsewhere on the net, and for less than a tenner extra it's a huge shame not to take advantage of it if your MJ has the feature.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Apr 2012 01:38:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6084-megajolt-temperature-correction/</guid>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title><![CDATA[Waisted Stem 1.44&#34; Valves]]></title>
		<link>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6083-waisted-stem-144-valves/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[I'm planning the assembly of a ported and skimmed (10:1) head for use with a TR5 profile cam in a 1500 engine and fuel injection. It's definitely going to have 3 angle valve seats and backcut larger 36.5mm/1.44" inlet valves, but is it worth getting the wasited stem valves Moss sell (<span style='color: Black'>TT1714) </span>for the GT6 in this size, given that they cost 4x as much?<br />
<br />
I don't mind spending money to get performance, that's a given, but I'm not sure whether the effects of them will be greater or lesser with all the other modifications as well. Don't just want to be spending money to pad out the spec sheet, real world driving difference is what interests me so if there's any downsides would be interested to hear them too.]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 10 Apr 2012 12:18:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/6083-waisted-stem-144-valves/</guid>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
