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  2. Technical discussion boards

    1. General Technical Discussions

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    10. Interchangeable Parts

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    11. General TrackDay and Race Prep

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    12. Technical Articles & Reviews

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    13. Triumph Small Chassis Archive

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  3. General Car Discussions

    1. Triumph Spitfire / GT6 / Herald / Vitesse

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    5. K Series Specials

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  • Recent Posts

    • I am a fan of spray "chain lube" for all sorts of stuff, including storge of metal stuff. 
    • Complicated shapes there. Have come out very well 
    • Essentially correct there John. The rocker shaft needs to be lowered as you have found.  Regards pushrods you need to account for the increased depth of the tail of the roller rockers, the 'cup' in the underside that surrounds the adjuster ball and clearance for the head of the pushrod so it doesn't strike the rocker. As the space around the head of the pushrod is not easily measured it's best to do this once the rocker heights are set. You can play around a bit with ball adjuster heights. Also with the tube nut type pushrods you need to check clearances on them too. There isn't actually that much room for the envelope the pushrods occupy when in motion.
    • For storage, there are various products that work, and cost money! As a rule, onboard for likes of fuel injectors, fuel pumps etc I use a thin oil (often air tool oil) and wrap in plastic (cling film or similar). For larger items (eg the Generator cylinder head that is about the same size as an entire triumph 4 pot I stored today) I paint with EP2 grease and then wrap. So for gearbox parts, if you envisage using them in the next year or so then oil, if storing for longer I'd just paint em in grease myself. Far easier to clean when you need them, problem with waxoil or dedicated products is they can be a royal PIA to clean up.
    • Wow That’s looking great John really coming together nicely.   
    • Thanks all, some great ideas. The rust is so light I think a quick wash of white vinegar would sort it. Will give that a go then phosphate and protect with ACF50 or thinned waxoyl (might try both).
    • OK, progress.    To supplement the above good advice, I find that the Revington TR website includes a way to calculate if the rocker shaft is the correct height above the valves for good geometry, as explained by m'learned friends above.  See: https://www.revingtontr.com/information-sheets/is0066-rocker-geometry   I've sent most of today trying to follow it.   I think that it aims to find that the central axis of the rocker shaft is halfway between the closed and open heights of the valves - would m'learned friends agree?   - and every iteration of my measurements shows that it is in fact above that level.   By how much?  I've done the measurements half a dozen times, and never got the same result twice, but about 2.5mm.   Certainly, a spirit level on a rocker shows that at rest, closed valve, the  rocker top is level (I know that's not level with the pivot points at either end, but anyway) so that the arc of its travel is all below the horizontal, when (I think, M'learneds?) it should be horizontal halfway through that arc. Lower pedestals would go towards correcting that, so first task would be to have 2.5mm removed from their bases. This then brings us to the length of the push rods, but I can't see how I can check that with my adjustable rod (below) until the shaft is that much lower.   M'learneds? Please? JOhn
    • I put mine in the tank then shook some nuts and bolts about.     
    • Evapo-rust is currently on offer from toolstation, £37 for 5L I think. Sounds interesting stuff....
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